So, it’s the Teamwork Issue, and we could have bored you with pairings. But then we thought, “Hey—it’s summer, summer in LA!” and realized it would be sacrilegious to deliver anything other than a taco roundup. A matter of civic pride and a de facto dietary staple, tacos are a cross-genre crowd-pleaser, gutturally satisfying to every Angeleno. It wasn’t easy, but we powered down our user-friendly, fascist laptops a little early and did a little research. Someone had to.
EAST LA | TACOS BAJA ENSENADA
You either frequent this spot on Whittier Blvd. or have been planning to. Tacos Baja Ensenada has a well-deserved rep for having the town’s best fish and beer-battered shrimp tacos. There’s a consistent line out the door, but worth the wait.
WHAT TO GET: Fresh and festive, cop the Fish Taco and top it with “chiles gueros,” seasoned roasted yellow peppers from the bar. Be advised—everything here is seafood, and they’re not stingy with the salsa. And when the festivities of Taco Tuesdays come to a close, don’t be discouraged—Baja Ensenada offers $1 fish tacos on Wednesdays too.
MID-CITY | LEO’S TACO TRUCK
Leo’s Taco Truck is marvelously stationed on Venice Blvd. and La Brea Ave., adjacent to a 76 gas station—fill up your tank and your stomach in just one stop. The business is in operation seven days a week, from T-shirt time until 3 AM during the week and 4 AM on weekends.
WHAT TO GET: Like any self-respecting taco truck, Leo’s is cash only, folks. Priced at just $1, the Al Pastor is their most popular item, kept moist with sliced pineapple and a subtle hint of spice. Leo’s also boasts a full condiment bar, but chances are you probably wont even need it.
DOWNTOWN | MARISCOS JALISCO
Meandering around the Fashion District getting you hangry? The big white truck with blue and red letters spelling “Mariscos Jalisco” can be spotted even without your
Oliver Peoples Warby Parkers. Just bordering Boyle Heights, Mariscos Jaliscos proudly serves up some of the city’s most savory, hearty, seafood tacos.
WHAT TO GET: The taco de camaron is a seafood enthusiast’s dream come true, filled with fried shrimp and spicy sauce, fried again, and topped with avocado and even more red sauce. Oysters and octopus are also on the menu, in a cocktail or on a tostada. Make it a threesome—you can have whatever you liiiiiiike.
EAST LA | LOS CINCO PUNTOS
Carnitas for the count! This eastside gem is a neighborhood grocer, a local lunch haunt, and a cheap dinner pick-up all rolled into one. You might want to wear stretchy pants; portions here are as big as the taste. Extra points for the hand-made tortillas (we watched). Get there early, these guys close at 6pm.
WHAT TO GET: Los Cinco Puntos gives you your choice of cut by the pound. You might also want to grab a burrito, quesadilla, or taco instead to fill their homemade tortillas, and garnish it with pickled nopales and an awesome red salsa. Or, you can live a little. One word: chicharones.
BOYLE HEIGHTS | GUISADOS
At Guisados, it’s all about the meat. Well, it’s also about their grilled vegetables and freshly patted, corn tortillas too. You might discover a thin slice of avocado, a few pickled spicy onions, but that’s pretty much it. These guys let the quality of their ingredients speak for themselves. Parking struggles keeping you away? Fear not—a second location in Echo Park should quell those hunger pangs, and there’s a 3rd under construction in DTLA.
WHAT TO GET: Our vote goes to the sampler plate. Made with six mini-tacos, each one is filled with a savory meat or vegetable, surrounded by one of their famous handmade tortillas.
ECHO PARK | BELLEVUE STEAKHOUSE
La Movidita, affectionately dubbed The Bellevue Steakhouse by locals, almost didn’t make our list. You see, this place is such a gem that we were reluctant to give it away. But alas, your gain is our crux—the woes of journalism be damned. Initially a taco stand on Bellevue Ave., this taco purveyor has since moved to a dimly lit garage farther up the street (ask a local). Get your asada fix Thursday through Sunday evenings, rain or shine.
WHAT TO GET: The real claim to fame is the suadero taco. At just $1.25, this taco is meaty, rich, and absolutely delicious. Top it off with one of four (or go big and try ‘em all) of their salsa offerings, or some pickled onions and chopped habaneros.
The fellas at the Vape Supply Co. have finally opened their downtown location doors to the masses, with a party to boot. And we just couldn’t say no to personal invites from owners Aaron, Joe, JC and Ben.
A quaint little shop located on East 6th and Los Angeles Street, had a vape bar in full effect with patrons testing out juice and checking out the shop’s wide variety of pens and mods. Sounds from Cornbreezus on the one’s and two’s built up the glamorous, yet laid-back, motif inside the shop.
Then, if you were crazy enough to brave the cold, or you downed enough cans of Monaco’s cocktails to make you immune to it, you followed makeshift signs and were directed to the 7th floor rooftop terrace. DJ crew the Beat Junkies’ Babu graced the tables after Pasadena’s DJ Serts held it down for most of the evening’s rooftop festivities with his choice hip-hop selection. A mixture of dope sounds and a clear downtown view made it certainly worth the chill
The Vape Supply Co. downtown opening celebration was beyond appropriate for its second store reveal, especially when comprised with quality folks, good drinks, good music and good food. Did we forget to mention there were tacos? Yeah, there were tacos.
Photos courtesy of: Roy Mananquil
L.A. is spoiled when it comes to good tacos. You can’t go for a jog without being tempted to stop by a truck and eat three, maybe five delicious tacos. Those on the Westside suddenly know fluent Spanish when they want to order theirs al pastor or de carnitas. Even New Yorkers are on a desperate search to find some for themselves that rival ours. Best of luck you guys. In this city, when it comes to tacos, we got this, it’s ours, it’s just what we do best. But even here, claiming one spot as equal to or better than any other is grounds for a street fight. So when one Mexican restaurant is unanimously loved by Angelenos, it means something.
Guisados is the father-and-son restaurant that for the past three years has been receiving all the love. The Eastside prides itself on its historic Mexican roots and can spot authenticity a mile away. Within the first year of its opening, the restaurant on the corner of Cesar E. Chavez and St. Louis St. became a staple of Boyle Heights and Los Angeles as a whole – with families, church dwellers, and blue-collar workers, coming in daily to grab a bite that’s familiar, and most importantly, legit. In the same year Guisados left food critic, Jonathan Gold, at a loss-for-words. When he finally caught his breath, he described one of their tacos as, “a taco that will sneak out of the house in the middle of the night to do things that no taco should ever do, but you will always take it back, because you have tasted the complexity that lies three layers down.” If that’s not real love, I don’t know what is.
Armando De La Torre Sr. and Jr. managed to set up a restaurant that feels like the cook rummaged through mom’s kitchen, found some of her best recipes, and slapped portions of them on top of a warm homemade tortilla. Even the masa used to make the tortillas is made in a small market behind the restaurant by another family member. Their second location in Echo Park has already won over the area, and now Guisados is preparing to open a third location in downtown. Armando De La Torre Jr. sat down with LAC to tell us about his family’s history, the growth of the restaurant, and of course, the tacos.
LAC: Ok, so let’s start from the beginning..
ADLT: In 2010, Guisados was born on the busy corner of St. Luis and Cesar Chavez. A small taqueria created to serve traditional braises on handmade tortillas. Next door is Carnitas Uruapan, which is a market and deli. There they grind the corn to make masa. So we knew we had that there at our disposal. We integrated this fresh masa into our menu. Thinking we can do tortillas, tamales, etc. We were like, “let’s do these home-style braises, these Guisados. Items that usually go with a side of rice of beans, but instead put them on a tortilla and call them a taco”.
We started with the idea of what your mom cooks at home. While your mom is cooking you grab a tortilla, stick it in the pot, and grab whatever she’s making. It’s just something you did as a kid and we wanted to bring out that nostalgia. Even to this day we get people who are like, “this takes me home.” It’s amazing to see people relate to our food.
LAC: Where’s your dad from?
ADLT: He was born and raised here. He was born in Monterrey Park, same with my mom. I was raised in Alhambra.
LAC: How do you work out the recipes with your dad?
ADLT: My father, and his partner at the time Ricardo Diaz, worked up our menu. I was in charge of everything you see, the branding, the empty walls, the social media, and the daily operations. When we first opened Guisados, Ricardo Diaz and Armando Sr. wanted to focus on the idea of these braises on handmade tortillas, the merging of Armando Sr and Ricardo Diaz created something special. The menu started off small at the beginning and eventually grew to what you see today. Since then, Ricardo has ventured into other projects of his own and my father and I decided to focus on Guisados and work on expanding into other locations. Now, we have a couple of guys who cook our recipes every day. They come in early in the morning leave by noon. Their only job is to cook our recipes over and over and over again. So that way, our food stays consistent. We cook everything in Boyle Heights. In the morning we separate it and send portions to Echo Park. That’s how both locations can provide food that tastes exactly the same.
LAC: What year did you open the restaurant?
ADLT: December of 2010. This December will be our three year anniversary. We want to have our downtown location open by January to kind of be able to have one restaurant open a year. When we started that was like a dream. When we started we were like, “oh man it would be so cool if Jonathan Gold wrote about us”, or, “man, it would be so cool to open another restaurant”. So now that we have this new location coming up, we have so much pride in it because this is our opportunity to show that this isn’t just a fad restaurant. A lot of people tell me, “eighty-something percent of restaurants don’t pass two years”. We’ve gotten passed that. But it kept us humble because it’s also scary. Every time we get a slow day we’re like, “oh no..” We start getting worried. It’s an interesting change for us and we’re open to the challenge.
LAC: How’s the Echo Park location working out?
ADLT: It’s been a blessing. It has far beyond exceeded our expectations. We took a chance on that location because there are no other businesses around it. For us, we saw that as not having competition. At the same time there’s barely any food traffic, most people drive to us. In Boyle Heights there’s so much foot traffic, we have so many locals coming in.
Each one of the locations has a very different vibe. Here in Boyle Heights, it’s home’ish. Echo Park is very laid-back, you can go there and hang out. Hopefully we’ll be serving wine there soon. In downtown, it’s going to be a hybrid of both. Each one is going to have a different feel. To me, it’s like everything is just one big restaurant that has everything you want, but it’s broken into three different locations. We’ll experiment different ways in how to get people in them. One thing is a breakfast menu, like breakfast tacos, but mainly things we were just raised on.
LAC: Do you ever change the menu?
ADLT: The menu that you see right up front stays the same. The only thing that changes are the specials. At first it did change a lot, which is why it’s written on a chalkboard, but after a while we started to understand how to maximize our food so we don’t throw so much away.
LAC: What makes a good taco?
ADLT: For me, it’s originality and flavor. Everybody has their own opinion of where the best tacos are, “this place has the best carne asada! No, this place has the best carne asada!” Well to me, I’ve had plenty of carne asada, but carne asada is just carne asada. It’s steak, grilled. Even today, we get people who look at our menu and order carne asada. We don’t have carne asada. We have the same kind of beef but made completely different. It makes people try something new. It makes them step out of their element. We’re not trying to change Mexican food, because this is Mexican food, but we’re trying to broaden people’s perception of Mexican food. It was important for us to be original and true, especially here in Boyle Heights.
LAC: Talk about the habanero sauce..
ADLT: Our habanero sauce is practically a puree. It’s 95-97% habanero, mixed with a few other ingredients, but it’s mainly habanero. People are used to red and green, then they see habanero they’re like, “yeah I’ll try it”. They’re all machismo about it. Then they taste it, and honestly, I’ve had guys cry.
LAC: You seem to get everyone from LA here.
ADLT: We do. We get celebrities, locals, doctors, students, lawyers, politicians. It’s all for the food. That’s the most important thing for us, it’s the quality of the food. Focusing on one thing and try to do it well, which is why we don’t serve anything else but tacos.
When we started this place the walls were just white, now I’ve started to feature local artists’ work on the walls. It gives them some exposure, it changes my walls up a little bit. It gives a sense of community. The main idea of this restaurant wasn’t to just make money, it was to try something new and throw our passion at it. I just want people to come here, feel welcomed, and enjoy themselves.
We had been eyeing chef Walter Manzke’s moves ever since we snuck a bite of his Pig Ear Nachos at Test Kitchen. So when Playa closed its doors in March, we were ever so curious to see what would fill the void (Dear god, do not let it be some preachy vegan-paleo-raw-gluten-free-macro-nutrient-deconstructed-I’m-more-sophisticated-than-you restaurant). Enter Petty Cash, Manzke’s newest endeavor with Guillermo “Oso” Campos and restaurateur Bill Chait.
The restaurant is a bit of an ode to Los Angeles’ roots, a thoughtfully constructed blend of gourmet food and L.A.’s east side Mexican fare. Tables are communal with smaller two-tops available for a more intimate experience. The 150-seat room is dominated by a wall mural by graffiti artist RETNA and repurposed 40 oz. beer bottles serve as water jugs on every table.
Julian Cox, mixologist extraordinaire, has taken the reign of Petty Cash’s bar, serving up drinks like The Brixton, a mix of lime, Thai chili, gin, a flaming green chartreuse, and a quirky straw. Or the Jamaichael Jordan, inspired by the Luchador’s Lady from the Bon Vivants. There is an array of fun, inspired cocktails along with unique mezcals and tequilas at a relatively good price.
We immediately got started with Manzke’s cheesy churros: foot-long fritters, coated shaved cheese, served with green mole corn dip. As heavy as it may sound, it’s anything but. Fluffy fried dough with oozing cheese that simply melts in your mouth. Churros were followed by chicharrones, still crackling and popping and accompanied with a spicy avocado and carrot-pineapple dip.
Ceviches and seafood play a strong role on Petty Cash’s menu, offering everything from Kanpachi and oysters to Ceviche Negro, cuts of Mahi Mahi cooked in a rich, smooth squid ink base. Gotta say, I’m a traditional ceviche kinda gal (the more acidic, the better), but this definitely sparked by taste buds. Sprinkled peanuts and a hint of mango create a real depth of flavor that make this dish sing.
Next, we tried one of the DIY aguachiles, a chilled seafood broth made from homemade clamato, served in a traditional molcajete and packed with an impressive mix of Kanpachi, Littleneck clams, octopus, Gulf White prawns, Live Santa Barbara Prawns, and Santa Barbara sea urchin. A corner of the ocean for your seafood-loving friends. Be warned, the mortar is far shallower than it appears so carefully consider the expensive price point before diving in.
Finally, our favorite Pig Ear Nachos made a second appearance and proved to be just as excellent this time around. Undeniably delicious, we’re still not sure what we loved best about this dish–the oozing, runny egg yolk, or the chewy, fried pig ears. (There is something so satisfying about cutting into a soft-cooked egg, isn’t there?)
The shrimp tostada, seemingly less popular and a bit hidden in the middle of the menu, proved to be one of our absolute favorites. The ingredients are fresh and colorful, an eye-catching mix of Ceviche shrimp, sungold tomatoes, avocados, radishes, and lime. Do not dismiss the tortilla however. The tostada itself is worth mentioning, a perfect mixture of masa and water, wonderfully crispy and never waning under the weight of its ingredients.
Our tostada was followed by Crispy Brussels Sprouts in a morita-cauliflower crema. The Brussels Sprouts were separated into petals and quickly fried, making them less hearty than we would have liked, but the veggies are so nicely seasoned that we could even do without the cauliflower crema at the bottom of the bowl.
On to the tacos. The Al Pastor is robust in flavor, with a nice heat from the salsa. The Baja fish taco, a favorite, is lightly battered, not too heavy, and well textured with the crunch of cabbage. The Charcoal Grilled Octopus is a standout here, incredibly tender and just a tad smoke-y. The arbol chile, peanuts, and jack cheese truly compliment the fine-tuned flavor of this taco.
And even after stuffing ourselves to a point of near-suffocation, we decided it wouldn’t be fare to skip dessert. After all, we’d gotten this far, it would be a shame to quit now. Dessert consisted of both a leche flan with strawberry granita and buñuelos (beignes) dipped in cinnamon and sugar and served on a bed of dark chocolate syrup. These two desserts are really all this menu needs (that is, if you have enough room in your stomach to make it this far down the menu). I am an avid chocolate fiend, my partner-in-crime not so much, so we were oh so pleasantly surprised to have something that suited our taste buds equally. The flan is incredible, served in a mason jar and topped with cut peaches. And the buñuelos, oh those buñuelos. So light, so fluffy, served warm, so delectable. The chocolate is real chocolate, so rich that we couldn’t even attempt to make a dent in the portion. No worries though, doggy bags are welcome.
While we may have been skeptical of a gourmet taqueria, especially when L.A. does it so well on the street for a fraction of the price, we knew Manzke would make it interesting. Petty Cash is a great addition to the array of restaurants lining Beverly Blvd. You won’t leave hungry, that’s for sure.