FOOD SCOOPS: DINNER AT MIGNON

By REBECA ARANGO
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AT A GLANCE:
MIGNON
128 E. 6th St. Los Angeles, CA 90014

GOOD FOR: A cozy party of one or two, snacks and drinks, catching up with an old friend, reading a book, a casual yet substantial dinner.
BAD FOR: Big groups, getting ratchet.
PRICE: Drinks $6-$14, Food $5-$30
VIBE: Intimate, comfortable, romantic
DRINK: A curated selection of wine & beer
EAT: Rustic, approachable French dishes
HIGHLIGHTS: Happy Hour till 8pm and all-night on Sundays; warm, fresh bread; savory soups and the Braised Short Rib.

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Truth is, the Historic Core is my neighborhood, and Mignon is my favorite neighborhood spot.

This tiny wine-and-cheese bar tucked in next to Cole’s is aptly named after the French word for cute. But aside form being plain-old adorable, I could go on and on counting the ways it wins my loyalty and affection: it smells like freshly baked bread, the lighting is less than dim, the wine is carefully curated and affordable, they always play the perfect music at the perfect volume, and you can very comfortably sit in there by yourself and read a book. (The best time to do so is Sunday, because—and it pains me to divulge this information—Happy Hour is all night.)

 

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While I was perfectly happy munching on Mignon’s prosciutto-and-butter sandwiches, small vegetable plates, gourmet meats and cheeses, and irresistible bread, they’ve now introduced a nightly dinner menu of rustic French cuisine. Which might seem odd considering they don’t exactly have a kitchen.

 

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You see, Santos Uy, the oenophile responsible for this brilliant little bar, also owns the successful Hollywood French restaurant Papilles. To bring a downscaled version of Papilles’ approchable French fare to Downtown LA, Uy enlisted Papilles Chef Tim Carey to create a new dinner program for Mignon. All the food is prepared at Papilles every day, brought over to Mignon, and cooked in a clever miniature sous-vide set-up.

I thought it smelled good in there before, but now….swoon, drool, etc.

 

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A Frisee Salad with a soft-boiled egg: fresh and bright with crisp lettuce and radishes plus a perfectly gooey yolk to break into.

 

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Soups are Chef Tim’s specialty, and once you try this one you’ll totally believe it. I’m not usually a fan of Lentil Soup, but this is nothing like your usual earthy, bulbous slop. It’s silky, savory, and comforting.

 

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Braised short rib: this is one of those super soft, melts-in-your-mouth pieces of beef that packs a wonderful flavor, sitting atop a bed of yummy mashed potatoes.

The compact menu changes nightly, and dessert is on its way, but on any given night whatever you find on the list is sure to leave you nostalgic for the French countryside upbringing you never had. Yeah, it’s powerful stuff.

 

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Prix Fixe $29

Entrée, Plat, Dessert ou Fromage

A la Carte

Les Entrées $8

Ouefs en Cocotte: Baked Eggs, Leeks, Cream

Paté de Campagne, Mustard, Cornichons

Okame Spinach, Pea Tendrils, Nasturtium, Lemon

Celeriac Velouté

Les Plats $18

Garbure: Pork Shoulder Stew with Ham Hocks, Cabbage, Parsnips, Carrots and Leek

Braised Short Ribs, Carrots, Turnips, Rice

Extras $6

Macaroni Gratin

Cauliflower Gratin

Relish Plate: Raw Roots and Butter

Desserts $7

Chocolate Pot de Crème

Lucie’s Cake

Charcuterie $5 each, $13 for 3

Served with Baguette, Butter, Mustard and Cornichons

Tamworth Prosciutto, Coppa Piccante, Saucisson Sec, Speck, Bresaola

Les fromages $5 each, $13 for 3, $20 for 5

Served with Baguette and Accompaniments

Brillat Savarin, Caña di Cabra, Epoisses, Pecorino Ginepro, Mahon, Bleu des Basques

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